Author: Maya Wong

MAYA WONG SS25 marks a return to designing a full collection after a break, and a return to what defines the brand at its core: unapologetic, genderless, provocative, and unexpected. The collection strips away the unnecessary, focusing on sharp silhouettes, experimental materials, and rebellious details. Black dominates, representing power, mystery, and defiance.

The show opens with an oversized reflective shirt that reacts to camera flashes, carrying a simple message: “Flash a light at me. I’m back.” Sheer fabrics, padded red logo details, twisted constructions, oversized tailoring, and subtle rose patterned nylon continue throughout the collection. Familiar materials are placed in unfamiliar contexts, from sportswear polyester transformed into tailoring to faux leather referencing BDSM aesthetics in a more wearable form.

Genderless design remains central to MAYA WONG. The same button placement is used regardless of gender, allowing every piece to be worn by anyone. This idea extends into the casting and styling, rejecting traditional expectations of how masculine, feminine, or trans bodies should look. Fashion should create possibilities rather than reinforce boundaries.

Provocation also appears through the “ORGY” T shirt, with different gay roles printed on the back. Beyond its humor and sexuality, the piece explores labels, diversity, and coexistence. Different identities and roles can exist together without needing to become the same.

Technology and experimentation run through the collection, from LED logo earrings to an AI generated lookbook set inside a futuristic science laboratory. The final red nylon crepe jacket transforms MAYA WONG’s signature 1:2 rectangle from a graphic symbol into the actual structure of a garment. The black SARG bag appears throughout the show, while runway boots created with ADI combine glossy patent leather with fur for an unexpected contrast.

MAYA WONG draws from science, philosophy, sexuality, nature, technology, and human behavior. Ideas that seem unrelated are brought together to create something unpredictable, almost like a plot twist. SS25 is ultimately a return to that instinct: creating clothes without fixed rules for gender, identity, or expression.